
© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch

© Sam Birch
Sun, Snow and Where to Go
Unbelievably good first weekend in Les Arcs
Since the lifts officially opened on Saturday morning, I have been selflessly snowboarding all over Les Arcs to find the best snow. I have been pleasantly surprised by not only the number of pistes open, but the general conditions throughout the ski area.
Both days have been sunny and visibility has been excellent. Whilst there have been sub-zero temperatures at the summits, and Sunday was slightly breezier, the abundant sunshine made it feel very comfortable. It has certainly not been cold enough for thermal underwear anyway.
Hail to the Piste-Bashers
Every one of the main resort villages, except Villaroger, is accessible from the slopes. Considering that the last meaningful injection of snow was back in mid-November, that is quite an achievement. The pisteurs have clearly exerted a huge amount of effort to ensure the ski area was ready for the grand opening and, aided by low temperatures, they have created, moved and relocated a huge amount of snow.
The majority of pistes are open, meaning that one can easily ski from one village to another with minimal disruption. At lower altitudes some of the main runs into the resorts have been entirely created from scratch, which is quite frankly amazing. What is possibly more impressive, however, is that these fully man-made runs are great to ride.
On-piste conditions this first weekend have been very good, with the majority of runs proving consistent and quick. Some runs are closed, especially lower down, but there is definitely something out there for everyone.
Blue Runs
The main resorts in Les Arcs are well-connected by a network of blue runs which criss-cross the mountain, allowing skiers of all ability levels to enjoy the ski area in its entirety. These pistes have evidently been prioritised, guaranteeing ease of access to everywhere, for everyone. Ultimately, it means there are more blue runs open than any other type, so plenty to enjoy.
Above Peisey-Vallandry, the Grive blue run, which is serviced by the “2300” chairlift, is one of the best at the moment. Wide and open, it is great for beginners who want lots of room to manoeuvre. However, due to it being fairly straight and smooth, it also appeals to those who enjoy a rapid descent.
Another long and enjoyable blue is Plan which you can currently join from the Col des Frettes. This is a relaxed run, where you never seem to accelerate or slow down, but cruise along enjoying its spacious, open corners. Being above 2000 metres, in the afternoon shadow and well groomed, this is a slope which should keep well regardless of the weather.
Vallée de l’Arc also feels great at the moment. Take it from the top of the Varet bubble as it gradually winds down the mountain, past the Grand Col, broadening on the approach to Arc 2000. With sharper turns, sweeping bends, an almost-backcountry section and a wide thoroughfare at the end, it’s a blue run that keeps you interested.
Red Runs
The initial recommendation has to be Arandelières in Arc 2000. This can be a seriously quick run, with a thin, mountain-hugging start, a steep middle and flatter sections followed by drops until the finish. At the moment, there’s still plenty of grip on the more sheer parts and moguls have not really begun to form. Definitely worth a go.
Ours from the bottom of the “2300” lift to Peisey feels very quick. The base is super-consistent allowing you to pile on the speed without really noticing it. However, ensure you slow down for the blue runs which cross its path, especially since the snow seems to get a bit more compact, and less forgiving, after Retour Plan Peisey.
Cachette, above Arc 1600, is also rather good at present. However, immediately after the Arpette 1 intersection it is hard, very steep and difficult to grip, so approach that with caution. Or take the blue run...
One red run to avoid is Bellette from the top of the Derby lift. Along with the effectively parallel Renard (blue) and Bosses (black) pistes, it has been sacrificed at this stage to provide snow for other areas, leaving it closed with only a patchy initial covering. Similarly, do not expect to ride Vagère or Golf from the top of the Vagere lift as they are currently “off the menu.”
Black Runs
Joy to the World, Aiguille Rouge is open and providing big smiles to seasoned skiers. Even the very sheer initial section, which can be a bit icy at times, is feeling almost confidence-inspiring. Unfortunately, you cannot enjoy its full 7km length at the moment, as you are redirected towards Arc 2000 at the top of the Droset lift. However, by that time you have already done most of the fun bits. Also, you can head directly to the bottom of the Varet lift to go straight back up...
The Refuge piste is the only place with genuine moguls at the moment. Due to the altitude of the Grand Col sector, and the resulting thick base of snow, both black and red runs have been largely un-groomed. This means a more technical environment, complete with the odd stone. The moguls themselves are not rock-solid, but neither are they lumps of powder. It’s definitely a good place to start if you want to rediscover that deep-thigh burn.
Off-Piste
Now is not really the time for straying outside of the marked runs. Although many of the popular off-pisting areas have a base layer of snow, which will help to activate them in the future, much of it is icy and unyielding at the moment. If you are absolutely dedicated to escaping the constraints of the designated slopes then head to the Grand Col; the experts might find a few half-decent options up there.
Going Forward
I have had an excellent weekend on the slopes, so will be getting “back on it” tomorrow morning. The weather forecasts are suggesting that the clear skies will continue throughout the week, with ever-decreasing temperatures. Snow is still being created across the resort, new pistes are being “installed” and the slopes are largely quiet so, in the immediate future, conditions are likely to change very little.
Keep an eye on our lift status page to see what's open in which sector of the ski area.