Activity Reviews in Les Arcs — 12 of Our Favourites

The night started with a car picking me up promptly at 6, where I got to share the journey over to Peisey with a happy couple who’d won their places through the Paradiski competition. We arrived at the bottom of the Vanoise cable car and we were escorted up to the cabins. We were received onto the deck that was filled with cheerful if a little apprehensive competition winners. The apprehension was an undertone that marinated the beginning of the evening. The idea of setting off for dinner in one of the highest cable cars in the world that would then crawl slowly across the abyss was daunting and exciting at the same time. Luckily there were cocktails for the people that needed a little dutch courage. And the cocktails were goooooood. Mango, pineapple, banana, passion fruit and limoncello smoothie, boom. There was also an amazing selection of appetizers: foie gras flan, chestnut velouté, foie gras toasts and a fresh pasta amuse-bouche, so food-wise, things were looking promising.

At 7:45pm we were ushered downstairs to the lower deck of the newly decorated cabins and I was shocked. The normally utilitarian cabins had been glammed up beyond recognition. The formally drab interiors had been transformed into an enchanting winter wonderland with a partition to hide the hard working chefs who were there to transport us into Stéphane Froidevaux’s tastetastic gourmet world.

We were all assigned to one of two cabins and we had all been given our seats. Our places were designated by a little stone with our names inscribed on them in looping gold. When we were all seated our journey could begin. The doors closed and we were wished a bon voyage. The mise en scene was complimented perfectly by the menu, which, it was explained, was inspired by the nature that is so abundant in the Alps.

Our first course was presented to us in a wooden frame with all natural cutlery, pine cones and pine needles. There were three little verrines that were filled with delights! A tender piece of salmon that had been smoked in pine with an exotic vinaigrette, creamed cauliflower and a quinoa salad. The second course (and also my favourite) was a mushroom and truffle soup encased in a huge snowball with a wooden straw leading down to a hot, light and yet creamy soup that slowly transformed to cold. There was a small slice of toast with a truffle infused potato purée topped with caramalised peanuts. It was supposed to incite all of the emotions and scents that you can smell when you’re in a wood and it did exactly what it said on the tin. The third course was a foie gras terrine accompanied by a baba à rum perfumed with orange and cardamom. This partnership worked exceedingly well. The foie gras was followed by revisited potée, which is essentially a stew cooked in an earthenware pot using meat, charcuterie, potatoes and vegetables. The potée was delicious and the bouillon that the main ingredients were cooked in was cream infused with oranges, a delicate flavour that let the other ingredients’ speak for themselves. The final course, the dessert, a show stopping denouement to the evening’s proceedings, was a “Systéme solaire et ses planets aux trois chocolats”, Solar system and its planets of three chocolates. It was beautifully presented and even more delightful to eat.

The evening was truly exceptional and so was the wine that partnered our exquisite meal. There was 2012 Pouilly Fuissé followed by a 2007 Monthélie 1er Cru. Our superbly attentive wait staff apologised for the poor quality of the wine after the journey from the cellar to the Vanoise cable car and I have to say, if that was poor quality I need to get myself to Le Fantin Latour in Grenoble to experience what it’s supposed to taste like!

My fellow cabin members were indeed having a jolly old time and we were of the opinion that our cabin was definitely the more fun out of the two. With two TV crews and various photographers the night was punctuated with interviews and every competition winner that was spoken to, gushed their praises and could not have been happier with the night’s frivolities. The lady that I was sitting next to, Isabelle, was at first ever so slightly perturbed by the fact that we were swinging over a valley more than 350m below us, but after the first course she very quickly changed her opinion to that of pure elation!

When we arrived back at our starting point, we were given our snugly rugs and menus as a souvenir of our incomparable journey and handed a delightful cup or herbal tea, which had been concocted from flowers and plants that chef Froidevaux himself had picked. Everybody was starry-eyed and euphoric after their travels through the night and I myself found it hard to come back down to Earth after such a heavenly journey through the skies.

The swimming pool and wellness centre (spa) has become a go-to destination for holidaymakers in all the Les Arcs resorts and since its inauguration, the whole area has evolved even further and is even better than before.

Having spent relatively little time in the Arc 1800 resort over the previous few seasons, I thought it was time to check out what is on offer. There is a luge, a new restaurant, specific playful pistes and various outdoor activities, making the Mille 8 complex a perfectly-formed hub for family winter (or summer) holidays.

The Pool and Spa

When I visited Mille 8, I eschewed a trip to the gym (as I had spent quite enough time getting tired on the pistes over the last few days) and visited just the swimming pool and the wellness centre. Fortunately it was “Happy Hour” (between 12pm and 2pm) which means you can access both of the above areas for only €7! In my experience this is exceptionally good value, particularly in ski resorts. The pool is not a traditional oblong shape (so better for unwinding than swimming lengths) but was warm, relatively quiet, had separate jacuzzi sections, a great view of the pistes, water slides for the kids and jets along the sides to ease your aching muscles.

The spa has lots of different rooms providing many ways to relax. There are two large saunas and two large steam rooms; in each case one is “normal” and one is infused with eucalyptus oils. One of the saunas (the more fragrant one) has a stunning view of the pistes and, if it was not 85˚, I could have spent all afternoon in there watching the world slide by. Fortunately, the nearby solarium had an even better, panoramic view of the slopes, loungers, soothing music and free unlimited ginger tea: this is all designed to help you de-stress and as you're enjoying it, you probably stay longer than you initially intended.

There are some practical points you may want to know when coming here; I found ski racks but no ski lockers. You should take a towel for the saunas and solarium. Remember a €1 coin for the clothes lockers (which is fully refundable). You are also not supposed to wear ski boots inside the Piscine building so it might be an idea to head back to your accommodation and change first before coming over. 

The Pistes

There are three sections to ski in Mille 8, each dedicated to different levels of ability, starting from the dedicated Villards gondola. Le Cube is a very gentle beginners’ area where you can slowly navigate a series of multicoloured gates (complete with bells) before taking the short Golf “conveyer belt” lift back to the beginning.

Next up is the Cabanes beginners’ piste which wends its way through the trees, buildings and points of interest back to the Villards lift. This is a pleasant little slope, designed for cruising and chatting rather than any serious legwork. It is open relatively late (until 7.30pm) from the very beginning of the season and, on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, until 8.30pm for night skiing.

Les Bosses is a short boardercross area, described as a “freestyle run,” replete with starting gate and a series of eponymous bumps. The course tends to develop throughout the season, but is a great place for a short, twisty and often exhilarating race against friends or family. It does pass directly underneath the popular Vagère chairlift though, so any personal “fail” can be painfully public.

Although none of these runs is particularly long, the late opening of the Villards lift means you can ride them when the rest of the slopes are closed. Also, they will keep you occupied if one of your party want to stop for a snack, ride the luge, or light a fire in the barbeque for a lunchtime treat.

The BBQ

What a stunning idea! Located just to the side of the Cabanes run, there is a large triangular wooden hut with a deck, picnic tables and a huge amount of chopped firewood. A short, but safe, distance away is a very large round barbeque. Essentially this allows you to start a fire, shelter from any inclement weather, cook your own food and eat outdoors with the only outlay being your food and drinks. The grill is so large it could easily accommodate a couple of groups at a time and there is dedicated seating for sixteen people on two tables. (This may well be my find of the season, as I am partial to a hot sausage in a bun!)

In practical terms you will need to bring some sort of fire-lighter (unless you are Bear Grylls), food and drinks and there are handy bins on site for any rubbish you may create. 

The Lodge

Upon exiting the Villards gondola you cannot miss the huge new building which contains both “Le Restaurant” and “Le Snack.” These provide sit-down meals and faster food (including take-away picnics) respectively in very chic modern Alpine surroundings. The close proximity to the pistes, as well as the enticing decor, makes Le Restaurant a possible future candidate for a lunchtime restaurant review...

Les Pingouins

The tiny ones in your group can ride sledges and generally play about in the snow at the fun “Les Pingouins” section, near the bottom of the Vagère lift. It variously contains igloos, inflatables and a small “magic carpet” to help them get back to the top of the sledge area.

The Luge

Open every day from 2pm in winter, the luge is essentially a long purpose-built sledge run that curves through the whole Mille 8 area, going through two tunnels, the last one with lots of colourful flashy lights. It is fairly inexpensive (€6 for one run or €5 per run if you are having multiple rides) and children between 4 and 7 years old go for free! There is a choice of three different sledges: “The Big Bus” is the slowest, with a steering wheel and room for an adult and child; the “Rocket” is the most like a conventional sled; and the “Speedy” which is an elaborate blue tea-tray you can only steer by leaning “like on a motorbike.” The run itself is actually very good fun, even if your previous experience of riding motorcycles, this makes you no less likely to crash into a snow-bank.

When you have finished careening down the luge, you can buy a photo souvenir of your greatest moments, as there are two photo points which catch your most amusing expressions whilst you navigate the course.

Other things to see & do

In addition to the above, the area is decked out with some wacky and fun items to keep you amused. There is a huge Xylophone at the end of the Cabanes piste which you can run your baton across or, presumably, play the Valse Brilliante for the pleasure of yourself and others.

There are two observation points, providing a raised view of the Mille 8 pistes. Presumably this is best enjoyed at night, possibly with a flask of hot mulled wine. A short wooded walk takes you through the “enchanted forest” and helps you burn off the calories you may have recently acquired in Le Restaurant.

Overall

Mille 8 is a great place to visit regardless of where you are staying in Les Arcs. There are lots of fun and free activities with the outdoor barbeque in particular being a lovely spot to stop and eat. The swimming pool and spa are excellent value for money, although it is possibly easier (and more relaxing) to get a free shuttle bus into Arc 1800 when you visit from another resort, rather than ski across.

Find more information and prices for Mille 8. 

I opened the curtains and there it was, the sun! Hoorah! It would be a magnificently sunny day just for me. I dressed in the appropriate shorts and flipflops and on second thoughts grabbed a hoody. Much to my dismay, the sky was darkening the closer I moved to my destination. My boyfriend had informed me that he had to work and so my brother said that he would love to come. Unfortunately the unreliability of said brother is without equal and when I arrived at 8:30 to pick him he was a little worse for wear from the night before. No matter, I would raft alone.

I was headed for the Coureurs de Rivières, a company situated in Bourg Saint Maurice. The Coureurs de Rivières was founded in 1986 and has been offering river sports excursions in France and Northern Canada for over 29 years.  

I found Coureurs de Rivières or ‘River Runners’ with little difficulty and despite its rustic appearance it is not without a quirky, friendly charm. I was greeted by Rémy and Renauld who were very welcoming and gave me a run-down of their operations and a brief tour of the site. I was informed that my trip would be accompanied by a large family and we would be 10 ‘rafters’ plus 3 guides. All of the equipment was provided for by the ‘River Runners’ and there were changing rooms for the more reserved clientele (I did happen to glance up from my phone at one point to be assaulted by three naked bottoms, I am perhaps a little too English for that sight at 9:30am).

We were then split up because some of the group had expressed an interest in Canoe-rafting, so five of our group went in the canoe-rafts and the rest of us were going to have a bash at rafting. Rafting is among 5 of the activities that are on offer at ‘River Runners’. There is Kayaking/canoeing, canyoning, white water swimming or hydro-speeding and parachuting as well. All information about the courses and prices can be found here and there are also some outlines of the different courses, preconditions and prices at the bottom of this article.

The others in the boat were not beginners but were hardly experts either and with my incredibly ancient memory of rafting I was willing to listen to any advice/instruction to prevent me from plunging into the icy waters. There was a brief "How to/Do’s/Don’ts" chat before we were let loose on the rapids and I was relieved to be told that the beginning of the descent was ‘tranquil’ so we had a chance to warm up and get used to the instructions from our lovely (very patient) guide Pierre. There was another guide in our boat, so we were effectively surrounded by experts, which was incredibly reassuring.

I shied away from the front of the boat and opted for a middle position, only to be shunted to the front by the guides. I have to say, it is the best position although it is definitely the wettest! The two people at the front of the boat set the pace for the rest of the rafters, but only after being given instructions whether to paddle forward or back by the ‘rudder’ (Pierre). There were various other instructions but I won’t recount them all to you now, you’ll just have to find out for yourselves!

The weather was not great although there were a couple of patches of sunshine, but not enough to warm the temperature of the water which remained at a punchy 5°C (thank God for neoprene). The water does heat up in the summer, but the pathetically unsunny/stormy June that we have been having did not give us the balmy water that we so desperately wanted. Luckily, we did not fall out of the boat at any point and if any of the rafters would have had their own way, warm and unscathed we would have remained. The guides had other plans... We were to experience the feel of the rapids whilst in the water. We bumped and splashed over about 100m of bubbling, foamy water in the safety of our boat and we then drew up to the bank of the river where we tied the boat off and got out. We then proceeded to walk back up the river to the more ferocious point of the rapids and were told that we had to jump into the middle of the gurgling, thrashing water. I thought it was a joke. However, it is an integral part of rafting to learn how to get back to your raft and swim the rapids in safety.

The guide jumped in first and then we had to volunteer to jump in. Being a trifle madcap, I was ever so reluctant for about 10 seconds, but I threw caution to the wind and was the first one in the water. After having swallowed half the river, I bobbed back to the surface and floated back to the raft. It was incredibly exhilarating and it definitely woke me up. That was not the end of our swimming escapades as we got pushed in by the guides, one at a time and were told to try and get back to the boat so that the others could practice pulling you back in by your lifejacket.

The paddling keeps you pretty warm but after my second ‘dip’ I was starting to shiver. However, we turned a corner and the sun came out and reminded me of why I love the Alps so much. The scenery is so unbelievably spectacular that it is easy to become complacent. Commander Wood is constantly prompting her troops that we should always be mindful of our surroundings. So, I took a moment to look around as we entered the most picturesque part of our journey into the gorges and I realised that I was very lucky and should probably stop whinging about how cold I was.

The other members of our party were rafting for the whole day after their picnic stop in Gothard and I was envious of the fun that they were no doubt going to have. If you’ve never been rafting or if you’ve been rafting everyday for the last 20 years I would recommend ‘River Runners’. They were professional, organised and they made the whole experience wonderfully enjoyable. I need to go back because it has become my new favourite hobby.

• Junior Course: Bourg St Maurice - Gothard ;10 km of river
• Duration: 1 hour 15 mins- class2/3
• Min.Age: 8 years old
• Price/person : 42 Euros

• Course: Whole River Descent: Bourg St Maurice - Centron: 20 km of river
• Duration: 2 hours 15 mins - class : 3/4
• Min.Age: 12 years old
• Price/person: 55 Euros

• Course: Brides les Bains - Moutiers: 8 km of river
• Duration: 1 hour 15 mins
• Class: 4 (5 with the rapids of the Velodrome)
• Min.Age: 15 years old
• Price/ person: 62 Euros   Departure dependant on demand (6 pers minimum)

• Course: Haute Isere - Doron de Bozel
• Duration: Whole day
• Min.Age: 15 years old
• Price/ person: 105 Euros Departure dependant on demand (5 pers minimum)

• Rafting on the Dora - Baltee: Course: 25 km of river
• Duration: 3 hours 35 mins
• Class: 4 (5 if departing at St Didier)
• Price/ person: 120 Euros  Departure dependant on demand (12 pers minimum)

• White Water Swimming on the Haute Isere:
• Course- Descent down Haute Isere discovering ‘Bourg-Gothard’ with a passage in the ‘rapids of Aime’ (optional)
• Duration: half day
• Min.Age: 13 years old
• Price/ person:  55 to 65 Euros

• Canoe-raft on the Haute-Isere
• Course-Bourg-Gothard: 10 km of river
• Duration: 1 hour 45 mins  Class: 3
• Min.Age : 13 years old
• Price/ person: 55 to 65 Euros

• White Water Day
• You can compose your own day with rafting or canoe raft in the morning and white water swimming in the afternoon.
• Price/ Person: 105 Euros

• Canyoning
• Canyon Des Eaux-rousses
• Initiation - Duration: 2-2 hours 30 mins descent
• Situated next to Moutiers this canyon is an ideal place for the initiation to canyoning and abseiling. This vigorous excursion will see you abseiling through torrents of water.
• Price/ Person: prices start at 60 Euros

• Canyon de Pussy
• ‘Sportive’ Duration: : 2-2 hours 30 mins descent
• Also situated close to Moutiers this canyon offers the chance to experience abseiling down breathtaking vertical drops of 10 to 20 metres.
• Price/ Person: prices start at 60 Euros

• Canyon de Montmain
• ‘Sportive’ Duration: : 2 hours 30 mins/ 3 hours descent
• Situated between Lake d’Annecy and Faverges in Haute Savoie, this canyon is characterised by a mixture of exciting and challenging features, vertical drops of 3 to 10 metres, slides and many jumps.
• Price/ Person: prices start at 60 Euros

International Classification of Rivers
Class 1: Easy, steady flow, small currents, small/ simple obstacles.
Class 2: Little difficulty, uneven flow, small waves, weak rapids.
Class 3: Medium difficulty, waves, marked movement of water and rapids, some manoeuvring needed due to obstacles.
Class 4: Difficult, continuous waves, strong, rolling waves, good technique in rapids required, changes in height and depth of water.
Class 5: Very difficult, dangerous obstacles (rocks, movements of water), necessity to survey course before descent
Class 6: Limited navigability, impassable waters.

Snowmobiling is considered a “dangerous activity” so is highly regulated in France. Since 1990, there has been only one company in Les Arcs licensed to provide snowmobile tours, ArcAventures. I joined them for an early-evening tour of the ski area and, regardless of the weather, am very glad I did.

The Build-Up

Snowmobiling trips can only start after the lifts have closed and the skiers have vacated the pistes. I was booked in for 5.45pm and, having been emailed a comprehensive information pack beforehand, I easily found the meeting point just beyond the Transarc gondola lift. There I met Hervé, one of two skidoo instructors who lead the tours, maintain the vehicles and explain how everything works.

Once you have signed a declaration that you will comply with the instructions provided, you are given a shiny orange and black helmet (complete with hygienic single-use hairnet). In addition to wearing weather-proof ski gear and suitable footwear (not ski boots) the pre-activity information requests that you bring low-light or clear goggles, but I found the helmet visor more than adequate protection for the drive. There is then a short 5 minute safety briefing, after which the group was led to the snowmobiles and taught how to ride them. As there was a mixture of French and English speakers, Hervé explained everything twice; once in each language. He spoke excellent English and was very careful to ensure everyone understood and that any questions were answered before we set off.

The skidoos comfortably seat two people and Hervé explained it would be possible for pairs to swap drivers halfway through the hour-long tour. On this trip, the instructor himself had a pillion passenger and it is possible to book that seat at a reduced rate (€40).

The Ride

There are a maximum of five snowmobiles, including that of the instructor, and you essentially follow one another around the pistes of Arc 1800. You begin at a more leisurely pace, doing a short tour of the lower slopes, whilst you learn to manoeuvre, accelerate and decelerate. During this time Hervé was pausing regularly to keep the group together, taking corners very gingerly and, where necessary, giving individual advice to the drivers. After a short while, as we all grew in confidence, the pace began to pick up. Having started the ride at dusk, it was not long before I was relying on the headlamp and simply chasing the red light in front of me.

We began a “grand tour,” riding up marked runs, down single-lane tracks, through trees and across off-piste areas until we reached a significant altitude. By that time it was pitch-black and snowing rather heavily and wel had front-row seats for a firework display occurring above in the resort. I was trying to mentally keep track of our route but a series of quick ascents followed by any number of twists and turns soon had me completely disorientated.

I had never ridden a snowmobile before and it is entirely unlike almost anything I have tried previously. Shifting your weight seems as important to steering as turning the handlebars, so it is a bit like quad-biking, but the uncertainty inherent in driving on snow makes it all the more interesting. The excursion is billed as “low speed” but, at times, feels the complete opposite. You can absolutely hammer uphill and, on a couple of occasions, I certainly saw over 50 km/h. Believe me, that feels very quick on the snow in the dark. Downhill is another kettle of fish entirely; you are practically using a normal pair of skis to steer a massive, heavy, 500cc snowmobile with potentially two people sat on it. Suffice to say, downhill is the harder portion of skidoo riding.

By the end of the journey, we were dropping off fairly precipitous ledges off-piste, traversing moguls, riding through wooded areas and, of course, accelerating hard on the ascents. Although it snowed throughout, and was dark from very early on, it was a thoroughly excellent experience. I imagine the views would be more spectacular if the visibility was better or that, later in the season when the days are longer, you might enjoy being able to see more than 50 metres in front of your skidoo. But, for me, riding hard through the darkness following an expert guide was very exhilarating and totally worthwhile.

The snowmobile itself was very comfortable, with two wide, soft seats, a backrest for the pillion passenger, a large protective windscreen and heated handlebar grips for the driver! It is fully automatic, so very easy to control, with one lever to accelerate and another to brake. With a 500cc, 4-stroke engine producing around 80hp, it certainly had more than enough power.

Further Practical Information

ArcAventures provide snowmobiling trips every day from Monday to Friday. The tours start at 17:15 in December and January, 17:45 from February onwards. Each trip is an hour in duration, which includes a short safety briefing. You can ski to the meeting point and leave your equipment there, but do remember to bring suitable footwear for riding the skidoo. If you are staying in a resort which is not Arc 1800, the earlier sessions provide enough time to catch a free shuttle bus (and, if necessary, funicular) to the other villages. The resort itself has free parking for up to four hours.

It costs €95 per skidoo, which can accommodate one or two people. All drivers must be over 18 years old, holding a full car or motorcycle licence, and passengers must be over ten years old. Helmets are included for both driver and passenger. You can book in person at the ArcAventures office on the Arc 1800 snow-front (between and below the Vagere and Villards lifts) or by telephone. All the staff speak both English and French. There are spaces for nine people on each excursion, or the office can arrange bespoke sessions for larger groups.

Before you undertake any new activity, ensure that you have the correct insurance. Many travel insurance companies automatically include cover for snowmobiling, but it is worth checking before you jump on the skidoo.

From the outside, the Igloo Village is quite an unassuming dome made of snow. There is a rudimentary gateway, some deckchairs, tables, chairs made of pallets and a low doorway labelled “Bar.” It's only upon crossing the threshold that you begin to comprehend the intricacy and scale of this natural, but simultaneously man-made, structure. Not only does it contain a bar, but it also has two large dining areas, a rabbit-warren of connected spaces containing elaborate sculptures and even two bedrooms. It has an exceptional spot on the pistes where you can pause for refreshment, discover some incredible artwork and even stay the night.

Our trip would involve a 20 minute flight from Les Arcs, over the Tarentaise valley, around the Mont Blanc massif before returning back to Arc 1950. Similar flights are available from most resorts in the area however the company we booked with, Helipass, operates from the Mont Blanc Helicopters base in Les Arcs.

The morning of our flight was similar to most mornings so far this season - cold, crisp and clear – not great from a snow perspective but perfect weather for flying. We arrived at Arc 1950 and joined a small group of fellow passengers already assembled, waiting at the base. A little disconcertingly there was, as yet, no sign of any helicopter.

After a few minutes shivering in the cold, I thought I heard a low droning noise slowly building somewhere behind us. Suddenly a helicopter burst into view, rising head-on impressively from a gorge to our right, before making a spectacular banked turn high above us. The aircraft slowed to a hover then gently touched down on a platform to our left. It was quite an entrance – something more suited to a Schwarzenegger film than a sightseeing trip. The pilot cut the engine, jumped out and strolled confidently toward us, hand extended.

It was at this point I realised – in my own head at least - this man would now forever be known simply as Airwolf. There followed a very short safety briefing in very quick French – the only part of which I understood was where to find the sick bags. Always handy. Briefing over, we boarded the heli, strapped in and donned noise-cancelling headsets. Slowly the blades began rotating above us, the noise and intensity increasing until, with a quick upwards judder, we lifted free from the ground. The aircraft inched gingerly across the helipad when the engine suddenly roared and we unexpectedly pitched down and forward, plunging into the ravine below.

Now, I’ve seen the Art of Flight movies, That’s It / That’s All etc and yes, on reviewing our footage, I would concede we didn’t exactly dive headlong from the sky but - at that moment, in that heli – I could have sworn we were near vertical.

We lurched down through the shade of the gorge before breaking out into the sunshine, the Tarentaise valley rolling out like a carpet below us. Having never been in a heli before, I found the speed of straight-line travel surprising. The journey by road from Arc 1950 to La Rosière would typically take an hour or so - yet we covered the distance in mere minutes. La Rosière is the last French outpost on the famous Col du Petit St Bernard – a mountain pass that links Bourg St Maurice and the Savoie in France with La Thuile and the Aosta valley on the Italian side. Typically the road opens May to October and would normally be under several metres of snow by now - yet today it looked to be almost passable with care. The effects of 5 weeks without significant snow in this region are really starting to show and the mountains this side starkly contrasted with the whiter Italian peaks further South and East.

Passing La Rosière, we flew in an arc, hugging the French side of Mt Blanc. We didn’t go as close as I’d imagined but no matter – the views were breathtaking nonetheless. Plunging down peaks and skimming over crevasse fields, we flew over some truly impressive, truly awe-inspiring scenery.

I’ve been coming to this part of the Alps for more years than I’d care to mention and I previously thought I knew this area quite well. A helicopter flight made me revise that view. The world appears a very different place from above - perspectives change, the mountain topography becomes clearer and distances shrink. It was quite humbling to see so many world-renowned resorts from the air – to appreciate just how close they are to one another. We flew onwards as the interconnected, sprawling hugeness of these Alpine resorts stretched out beneath us.

We were really very lucky with the weather and the sky was so clear we could see the mountains of Flaine, Sestriere, the Ecrins National Park (Les Deux Alpes, Alpe d’Huez etc), La Clusaz, Avoriaz and even Cervinia’s Matterhorn. At one point we could actually see as far as Geneva and Grenoble. 

Closer to home we had an unrivalled panorama over more familiar peaks – Mt du Vallon and the Aiguille de Péclet (Trois Vallees), Aiguille Rouge (Les Arcs), Bellecôte (La Plagne), Grande Casse and the Grande Motte (Tignes). And of course in the centre of things, dominating proceedings, was Europe’s highest peak - the mighty Mont Blanc itself. Obviously there’s debate as to whether Mt Blanc (4808m) or Russia’s Mt Elbrus (5642m) is Europe’s highest mountain. I guess it depends what you consider the borders of ‘Europe’ to be. For me anyway, Russia is a different landmass and Mt Blanc remains King of Kings.

We flew on, skirting foothills and glacial tides, passing impossibly close to a massive rocky outcrop before heading back over the valley to Les Arcs. We drifted teasingly low over the summit of Col des Frettes and the Carrelley chair before pitching steeply down the other side towards Arc 1950.

By now, our pilot had clearly worked out this particular group of passengers had an appetite for more aerobatic-type flying so he unleashed full Airwolf mode and set us into a series of spiraling descents. The G forces were incredible, squeezing us into our seats as we corkscrewed down into the valley. The closest I could compare it to is a spiral dive in paragliding – controlled, fast and full of stomach churning sensations. 

And then, all too soon, it was over - the quickest 20 minutes I can remember. We floated slowly over the landing pad before touching down gently - whereupon everyone spontaneously broke into applause for Airwolf’s skills.

So, in conclusion, is a helitrip worth the money? Well, for me anyway, it was a huge tick off the bucket list and a lifelong ambition achieved but let’s be frank - this is not a cheap thing to do. In fact it would tip the budget of most holidaymakers never mind that of a lowly saisonnaire.

That said, if you’re looking for a one-off experience that will stick with you the rest of your days – then yes, go for it. I’d particularly recommend it if, like me, you’re already fairly familiar with the area as it will give you a completely different perspective on the mountains and resorts you think you know so well.

We flew with Helipass, paying €300 each for a twenty minute flight. Yes, that’s not cheap but, then again, you get what you pay for and I can genuinely think of no better way to see the Alps, the Tarentaise resorts and their peaks.

There are a multitude of sites offering similar flights but many appear to be re-sellers for the same core providers – so it’s likely you may find fluctuations in price depending on the commission each individual company charges. It’s also worth noting prices seem to vary depending on the time of year and, particularly, the company you book through, so shop around for the best deal on the flight that’s right for you. 

Stuart is Creative Director of iRide Ski and Snowboard App, available now for iOS and Android.

Starting in Bourg St Maurice we picked up the funicular which runs every half hour, whipping you up the mountain in hardly and time at all. It's got loads of space for bikes, pedestrians and parapenters so there were no issues trying to get everyone on board. We thought we'd done a good job of trying to stack 5 bikes and their respective riders in a sensible fashion, only to have them fall over as the funicular picked up pace and gradient going up hill..doh.

Getting off at Arc 1600 we swung around to the Cachette lift and got straight up to 2,160m. The black track and the north shore area that we'd seen from the lift looked pretty good so the fact that most of the team had brought their DH bikes instead of XC bikes for the day seemed like a great choice. (Some of us only have the one bike, although my enduro is really good at tackling most things I throw at it!)

Bearing in mind on Saturdays there are only the funicular and the Cachette lift open, you're a bit limited in the access you get to the rest of the mountain. There are a couple of Enduro trails (A,B & C on the map) that link you to Arc 1800 and another long red enduro trail down to the funicular.. all of which involve a small amount of uphill which no-one was keen to do, so we opted for a purely DH day and I have to say it was pretty darn good!!

Fans of north shore will find a whole play area in the trees off to the right of the Cachette lift with easy and difficult route options. The easy one has smaller, shorter sections with see-saws, skinnies to practise on and little jumps. The expert section has big drops, steep run outs, big rock drops, step ups and downs and a tight right-hander wall ride (see the first picture above). Loved it!

The blue down hill track ("Rock'N Arolles - no. 4) from the top of the Cachette was a good warm up lap of about 4km which takes you down a bit of single track, into some nice wooded sections and covering -560m of descent. It's got some great little rollers, table tops and well built berms with lots of little jumps all over the place.. loads of fun. Loved that too!

The black DH track ("La Cachette" - no.7) starts from the same place as the blue and has some big table tops, big jumps, lots of rocks and steep sections, with variations where you can dive off left or right & re-join the main track again. There are some short steep step downs all the way down it, with lots of roots along the way and a wall ride towards the end. (Watch out for where the track crosses a small stream.. ride through the rocks & the stream on the left, or be prepared to jump the stream all together and go up into the trees on the high right line :-)). Really loved this track too!

There are a couple of places on the black track where you just have to commit and go for it.. I found the steep rocky section half way down a bit of a mental challenge, but once you've done it a few times it's no bother. There were guys on hard-tails that were walking around this bit as we went back up the lift.. no surprise on those bikes!

After a few laps of the black we stoped for lunch in the square next to the Cachette hotel and had one of the best bikers lunches I've had in a long time. Great salads, salmon & tsatsiki and filling galettes all washed down with an ice cold coke - the perfect refuelling stop. The day was getting on & we still had the home run to do, so we did one pretty much non-stop hit on the black track (not a great idea with a full stomach!) and a quick lap of the blue before the Cachette closed at 4.50pm.

It was the first time i've ridden the Black 8 track back down to the funicular & it was so much fun! The lads were taking lots of the steep cheat lines through the trees and having the odd minor incident as a result of pinning it into the corners a bit too quickly and a being a bit too close together. Meanwhile the girls were doing every hairpin and taking the more sensible lines! It's a great trail, weaving down through the trees on narrow, rooty single track with big drop offs on the sides in places, and by the time we'd got to the bottom we all had massive grins. Loved that too!

I know I've only touched on some of the vast amount of riding that's available in Les Arcs, but from the little bits that we were doing I'm sure the rest is pretty darn amazing too. Les Arcs you rock - I will be back soon to try out some more trails! Oh and if you feel like you deserve a beer and a pat on the back after your day's riding like we did, then stop off at Bazoom Bar in Bourg (across the road from the station). It's got a great atmosphere, decent beer and had a live band outside when we were there.

Read more about Mountain biking in Les Arcs and check out the variety of trails on offer. And find out about summer lift passes & prices here.

Thanks to Tom Humpage for the photos, Maloja UK for the bike clothing & to Specialized for my trusty steed!